While in Burkina Faso, I spent some time in my mother’s village of Nouna, in the southwestern part of the country near the border with Mali. It was a very rewarding and entertaining time during which I got to know my extended family and partake in village activities. I particularly enjoyed helping my extended cousin prepare Tomsos, which she sold every afternoon in front of the house. Tomsos are black eyed pea fritters very similar in taste to the Northeastern Brazilian street food Acaraje. The name Acaraje is derived from the Nigerian Akara, which was brought to Brazil by West African slave. In fact, black eyed pea fritters are a very common West African street food that can be found from Cote d’Ivoire to Nigeria under various names such samsa, tomso, gawoo and akara.

BLACK EYED PEA FRITTERS (adapted from the traditional method)

1/2 lb black eyed peas
1 small onion chopped
2 small garlic cloves chopped
1 heaping spoon chopped parsley
1/4 cup water
Salt and pepper
Vegetable oil for frying

In a food processor, pulse the peas just enough to crush them. Soak them overnight in a large quantity of water. The skin will float on the surface. Using the palm of your hands, rub the peas together to remove the remaining skin and drain the water.

In a processor, puree the black eyed peas. Add the onion, garlic and parsley and blend until homogeneous. Transfer to a bowl and whisk while adding water gradually until smooth and fluffy. The batter should be just thin enough to drop from an ice cream scoop. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Heat the oil to 360 degrees F.  Using an ice cream scoop, drop the batter into the oil and fry until golden brown.

Drain on a paper towel and serve hot with a spicy tomato dipping sauce.

Ouagadougou may not rank high on the list of top vacation spots, but when it comes to good meat, aficionados know to come here to get it. Farming is a big part of the economy and thus, the city boasts a multitude of roadside shacks that make use of the most rudimentary methods to create some of the most succulent meat specialties. The choices vary from grilled offals on a stick to whole animals roasted to perfection, enough to make Anthony Bourdain and Sandra Lee make out at a dinner table.

I tried a few things such as calf’s liver and heart brochettes, roasted lamb innards and grilled veal kidneys, but what I enjoyed most and can’t seem to get enough of is the wood fire roasted lamb. I still look at the cooking process in amazement wondering how such simplicity can result in such deliciousness.

Diallo, the man whom I buy my lamb from, roasts entire carcasses of lamb over wood fire. His day starts at 5:00 am when he picks up his lambs from the farmer. The animals are then slaughtered, cleaned and brought over to the roasting shack.

Each animal is generously seasoned with salt and laid flat on a grill covered with giant sheets of heavy duty paper. The meat is then covered with more paper and left to roast for hours. No flavor enhancers, no special sauces, just pure natural goodness. The end result is a very tender and juicy roast with a nice salty crust.

To order, one just needs to point to the piece he or she desires and specify the quantity. Once the cut and price are agreed upon, the meat is cut up into bite sizes and served with diced onions. Just to give you an idea, I ordered an entire leg for 5,000 FCFA , just a little under $10.

The plate is not complete without a side of Kan Kan Kan, a spicy powder that accompanies all grilled meats. The supposedly secret recipe is said to have aphrodisiac properties. However, a small investigation revealed that the main components were ground red chili peppers, crushed bouillon cubes, allspice and peanut powder (the residue left after oil is extracted from peanuts).

Chez Diallo Hamidou
Dapoya, Rue 12-27 (Opposite Sabine Bar)
Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso
Tel: +226-76-07-97-93
Wallet damage: 5,000 CFA ~ $10.00

Note: Takeout only.

I’m a big fan of oxtail. But every time I mention that I eat oxtail, I seem to get looks of surprise from my friends. If you’ve never had oxtail, you should give it a try before making a judgment. Oxtail is a bony and gelatinous, but very flavorful cut of meat that is best braised or stewed for hours. And though it is no longer as cheap as it used to be years ago, you can get some pretty good deals at Asian and Caribbean grocers.  The recipe I’m sharing is a great way to warm up during the cold winter days. It requires very few ingredients and the oxtail cooks in its own juice, resulting in a very flavorful stew.

BRAISED OXTAIL
1.5 – 2 lbs oxtail (cleaned and trimmed of excess fat)
1 shallot finely diced
2 garlic cloves
1 tbsp sugar
1 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp Balsamic vinegar
Thyme
Salt and pepper

In a saucepan, heat up the olive oil and add the sugar. When the sugar starts browning, add the the oxtail, sear and brown on all sides.

Add the minced shallots, garlic and saute for a minute. Deglaze the pan with the vinegar and reduce until thick.

Add salt, pepper, a teaspoon of thyme and just enough water to cover the oxtail.

Bring the liquid to a boil, then simmer for 2.5 hours until the meat is fork tender. Halfway through the cooking time, turn each piece of oxtail over.

Remove the oxtail from the pan, skim the fat off the cooking liquid and reduce. Adjust for salt and pepper, then return the oxtail to the pan.

Serve hot with rice or mashed potatoes.

Remember the preserved lemons I made back in July? Well, it’s been over a month and they are now ready to be used. And what’s a better way to use Moroccan goodies than in a Moroccan dish? It took me a while to find a good Moroccan cookbook. All the ones I found before were too westernized for my taste. So when I went to Morocco last summer, I made it my goal to find an authentic Moroccan cookbook. I ended up buying La Cuisine Marocaine (Moroccan Cooking) by Latifa Bennani-Smires, highly recommended by all the locals I asked.

The recipe I chose to make from this book is Chicken Mqualli with preserved lemons and olives. The star flavors are ginger and saffron, but the addition of the preserved lemons gives the dish a clean refreshing taste perfectly fit for summer.

CHICKEN MQUALLI (adapted from La Cuisine Marocaine)

1 chicken cut into 8 serving pieces – $5.00
1 heaping teaspoon freshly grated ginger – $0.10
2 or 3 garlic cloves grated – $0.10
1 pinch saffron threads- $2.00
1 tablespoon butter – $0.25
2 tablespoons olive oil – Pantry
1 small onion finely diced – $0.30
1 preserved lemon (4 quarters) – Pantry (homemade)
1 cup olives – $2.00
Salt and Pepper
1 cup water

Serves 4 for $9.75

Place the chicken into a medium saucepan. Season generously with salt and pepper. Add the grated ginger and garlic. Mix well. Sprinkle evenly with the saffron. Add the onion, butter, olive oil and water.

Cover the pan, bring it to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. After 10 minutes, turn the chicken pieces so they cook on the other side.

Simmer over low heat for 40 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Meanwhile, prepare the preserved lemon quarters. Scrape the flesh from the skin, discard the flesh and finely dice the skin. 10 minutes before the chicken is done, add the lemons and olives.

Once the chicken is fully cooked, remove it from the sauce and set aside in a baking dish. The chicken is done when the meat is tender and easily pulls from the bone.

Reduce the sauce over medium-to-high heat for 10 minutes. While the sauce is reducing, brown the chicken under the broiler for 4 minutes.

Place the chicken into large dish and pour the sauce over it. Serve with bread or a side of couscous. Your Moroccan dinner is ready.

In Morocco, food is generally served in a large communal plate that family and friends gather around. Enjoy!

Yesterday, it rained… again! After so many years in the UK, this should not get to me, but I just could not help but think about when I last visited my family in Gambia. I was nicely greeted by ever-shining sun, beautiful scenery, relaxed pace of life and of course great food.

In an attempt to forget about the gloomy doomed weather, I thought to myself “if the Mountain will not come to the prophet, the prophet must go to the Mountain” and set out to make some Chicken Yassa. Before I go any further, I think it is of up most importance that I give you a short history lesson.

The Gambia, commonly known as Gambia, is the smallest country on mainland Africa. It is bordered to the North, South and East by Senegal. Originally part of the same land, Gambia and Senegal’s fate was decided by the British and the French during colonisation. This resulted in the creation of two countries with related ethnic groups, traditions and cultures. It therefore should not come as a surprise if they both share the same traditional dishes.

Chicken Yassa or Poulet Yassa (in French) is a typical dish prepared in Gambia and Senegal. It is very easy to make and requires few ingredients.

Ingredients
Serves 4

1 Chicken cut into serving pieces
2 tbsp olive oil
Pitted green olives
1 Habanero pepper (optional)
Chopped fresh chives

For the marinade
2 tbsp Dijon mustard
5 medium onions, thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves minced
8 tbsp lemon juice
Salt and pepper

In a big bowl, make a marinade by combining the lemon juice, Dijon mustard, minced garlic, salt and pepper. Mix well; then add the onions and chives. Add the chicken and toss well to ensure the onions and chicken are well coated with the marinade.

Cover and refrigerate for at least two hours. I used to leave it in the refrigerator for an hour, but one of my good Senegalese friends pointed out that it needed to marinate for longer. I recommend you leave it in the fridge for four to five hours. If you are a very organized cook and host (unlike my sister!), you will prepare the marinade the night before and let the chicken marinate in the fridge overnight.

After the chicken has marinated, heat the olive oil in a saucepan and brown the chicken on each side. Remove and set aside.

In the same pan, saute the marinated onions for about five minutes. Then add the chicken followed by the juices from the marinade and the habanero pepper.

Cover the pan and simmer over low-to-medium heat for at least 45 minutes. You may add a little water if necessary. The sauce is ready when the onions are soft and caramelized, but not mushy.

Five minutes before serving, add the olives to the sauce. Taste for salt, and adjust if needed.

Serve hot with steamed Basmati or Jasmine rice.

Bon appetit or Na re sax jamah (in Wolof)!

Preserved lemons are an essential ingredient in Moroccan cooking. From stews to salads, preserved lemons are used in a wide variety of north African dishes, including the ever so popular chicken tagine with green olives and preserved lemons. Though Moroccan preserved lemons are widely available in gourmet and specialty markets, the recipe is simple enough to be made at home and far more economical that the store bought products. Why pay $10 for a small jar of preserved lemons when you can make 4 times as many for the same price?

There are countless recipes for preserved lemons, but mine is rather simple. I got it from my friend’s aunt when I traveled to Morocco last summer. I suggest that you use organic or unwaxed lemons. The number of lemons needed varies depending on the size of the jar you use. Essentially, you want the lemons to be squished together. I generally use 3 lemons per pint size mason jar.

Moroccan Preserved Lemons

Lemons, cleaned and thoroughly scrubbed
Kosher salt
Peppercorns and bay leaves (optional)
2 tablespoons of oil
A sterilized canning jar

Start by placing a heaping tablespoon of salt at the bottom of the jar.

Snip the stem tips from the lemons. Split each lemon in half vertically without cutting all the way. The lemons should remain attached at the base. Make another cut as if you were going to quarter the lemon, still keeping it attached at the base.

Pack a tablespoon of salt into each lemon and place the lemons one by one in the canning jar, squishing them together. Cover with a little more salt. Add the spices you desire. I use bay leaves and peppercorns. Some people add cinnamon sticks as well. Then, cover with warm water and finish with 2 tablespoons of oil. The oil protects the lemons from oxidation.

Seal the jar and let the lemons cure at room temperature in a dark place for a month.

When ready to use, remove a lemon quarter from the jar and rinse it to remove the excess salt. Remove the seeds and scrape off the pulp before using.

Thrifty Tip: Print your own labels and offer preserved lemons as gifts to your foodie friends.

Hailing from Cote D’Ivoire, I spent many of my teenage days snacking on yummy street foods ranging from alloco (fried plantains) to pain-brochette (beef kebab sandwiches), choukouya (chopped grilled meat) and poulet braise (barbecued chicken) among many others.

Today’s story began last night when I was taken by an intense feeling of nostalgia as I reminisced about the warm Ivorian weather and all the delicious food I used to eat back in Abidjan.  Sigh… In this cold and depressing New York winter exacerbated by homesickness, what’s a better way to get over the nostalgic blue than to indulge some of my guilty pleasures from the homeland? By that, I mean devouring a generous plate of Gboflotos, one of my favorite Ivorian sweet treats.

I wasn’t planning to write about my Gbofloto making experience on The Thrifty Gourmet, but I was left with no other choice after updating my Facebook status to “Rae is making Gboflotos.” Much to my surprise, this spurred a rather active wall conversation where I learned that Gboflotos are something Cote D’Ivoire and Holland have in common. In fact, a friend from high school wrote that she gets them every morning from a street vendor in The Hague. The Dutch version, which is traditionally eaten on New Year’s Eve and at street fairs, is called Oliebollen (oil balls). How cool is that? Anyway, for those of you who are still wondering, Gboflotos are fried dough balls that resemble the Louisiana beignets, except the Ivorian recipe doesn’t include eggs, milk and shortening.

Here’s my personal recipe for those who want to make it:

Preparation time: 15 mins
Rest time: 2-4 hrs
Cooking time: 10 mins

Ingredients

2 Cups of flour
2 Cups of warm water
1 Heaping teaspoon of active dry yeast
1 Teaspoon of salt
3 Heaping tablespoons of sugar
1 Teaspoon of pure vanilla extract (optional)
Vegetable oil for frying

First, I activate the yeast by mixing it with ½ cup of warm water until the granules are dissolved. Then I add one tablespoon of sugar. Why? Because this feeds the yeast and causes it to grow faster.

After mixing all the dry ingredients in a bowl, I pour the yeast liquid over them with my left hand and use my right hand to mix the dough.

I continue to mix by hand and gradually add the rest of the water with until I obtain a homogenous paste. Depending on my mood, I may choose to add a teaspoon of pure vanilla extract at this point. Since most African cooking is done from the soul, there is no set rule for the amount of water to be used. I play with the dough until my heart, my hands and the sound of the bubbles forming tell me I’ve attained the perfect consistency.  A few things worth keeping in mind are that a thick dough makes dense gboflotos (me no like) and a lighter one results in light and fluffier gboflotos (right on!).  Sometimes, there are small lumps in the dough, but I’ve learned not to worry about them because they all dissolve during the rest period.

Now it’s time to cover the bowl with a kitchen towel and let the dough rest in a warm place for 2-4 hours until it expands and bubbles form. To ensure that no air gets in, I usually place a heavy plate on top of the towel.

After the dough has risen, it’s time to fry it. Back in Abidjan, the frying is done in a round bottom pan. Here, the closest thing I can find to that is a wok. So that’s what I use. I fry the Gboflotos in batches of 6-8 until golden brown on each side…

When they’re done, I drain them on a paper towel, then I dust them with powdered sugar…  Voila! The end result is 100% Abidjan Joie de Vivre for less than $10.00.